Helen Louise Allen textile Collection

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Image: apparel yardage


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apparel yardage

Date: 1790 - 1799
Country: United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland
Continent: Europe
Technique: ikat, resist dyed, weaving
Material: silk
Dimensions: 33 x 19 in. (84 x 48 cm)
Credit: Gift of Mr. John & Dr. Ruth C. Morrissey
Accession Number: 1994.14.023


Comments: This yardage could also be French.  Somber colors, alternating bands of narrow and wide stripes and lack of any floral patterning suggest dating of 1790-1799.  See Rothstein, 1994, pp. 11-12.  Narrow width of yardage also supports an 18th C. dating.  Donor dated the piece as nineteenth century, but based on visual and physical evidence, A. Gyarmati Hoffman suggests the earlier 18th C. dating.  Long rectangular piece of black and white striped silk chine yardage with narrow black selvages.  Stripes run parallel to selvages and alternate between bands of clearly defined narrow black and white stripes and broad bands of chine.  Bands of chine are heavily shaded with black threads at outer edges that become progressively lighter with more white threads toward center.  Also visible in the chine bands are intermittently-dyed purple warp threads.  There are nine bands of narrow stripes, each of which is flanked on one side by a narrow, mottled, silverly stripe, and on the other side by a narrow deep black stripe.

Bibliography List
This object has the following bibliographic references:
  • Preserving Textiles: A Guide for the Non-Specialist. Indianapolis Institute of Art. Indianapolis, IN , 1999. Page Number: 16, 17.
  • Sheila Landi. Textile Conservator's Manual, The. Butterworth & Co., Ltd.. London, Boston , 1985. Page Number: 20.
  • Natalie Rothstein. Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: British Textiles from 1750-. Canopy Books. New York , 1994. Page Number: 12-12, 22, 79.
  • Dorothy K. Burnham. Warp and Weft: A Textile Terminology. Royal Ontario Museum. Toronto , 1980. Page Number: 23-24.

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stripe
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stripe



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